Saturday, March 8, 2008

Devil's Tower, Chapter Three: Sundance



The very first bit was that lovely dancey balance-shifting sort of face climbing that I love so much. That lasted for about 10 feet. Then the meat of the climb required wide angle stemming for, say, the next 100 feet or so. You know, the hip-popping calf-cramping variety. My mantra up the crack was "I'm so glad I'm not leading this, I'm so glad I'm not leading this." Not that there was ever any chance I would. I felt so tough, and relieved, when I finally crested the huge ledge where we united with the Durrance party.

Thursday, March 6, 2008

Devil's Tower, Chapter Two


The clouds parted before us as we drew near the Park entrance. Soon we were at the base of the Tower, racking up. 5 can be an awkward number, especially when dealing with post equinox daylight hours and starting after 11 am.

We broke up into 2 parties. Lindsay, Joel and Mark swapped leads up the Durrance Route, while I followed Peter up Sundance. The two routes converge a pitch or two from the top.

I liked this plan for a couple of reasons. One, I had wanted to climb with Peter ever since meeting and climbing briefly with him at Skeletal Remains a few years ago. Two, I had this whack notion that I didn’t want my first climb on the Tower to be the Durrance route, because everybody climbs it. The thing I forgot to remember is that sometimes everybody climbs certain routes because the routes are really cool.

Tuesday, March 4, 2008

Letters from Falling Rock

So I get this note from Pam that it was 50 degrees awhile ago and she and Ron took her son Ray climbing for the first time. Falling Rock is an interesting choice for someone's first climb. I've done that to people before, too. Apparently Ray is making his way up Garden Party. I remember climbing that when I first got to town. I think I didn't climb again for 5 years. Take the pumpy nature of Falling Rock and add the death grip common to many beginners and a pair of slippery tennis shoes for help and you'll understand why I couldn't use my arms for the next couple of days. Good thing Ray's tougher than that. Pam says they were just climbing something in the South Seas and that he did well on one of the Shark things. It was her first time back since breaking her wrist earlier this winter.

While it's somewhat painful to hear about the good climbing back home that I am missing, it's good to know people are out enjoying it, and it certainly brings back good memories.

Monday, March 3, 2008

Devil's Tower, Chapter One


October 17, 2007, 7am. The dense fog showed no signs of dissipating. It did not appear to be an ideal day for climbing, but everyone knows conditions can vary greatly by location, and fog often burns off as the sun ascends. I had been wanting to climb the Tower for a very long time. Thanks to Mark, schedules had been matched up, plans made, and our party organized. Riding to Spearfish together, Mark, Joel and I sparkled with excitement and anticipation to climb Devil’s Tower for our first time.

We met Lindsay at her new home in Spearfish. Mark entertained the dog outside, we popped quickly in and out of doors to keep the cats inside. Lindsay began the time honored tradition of sorting gear, making piles of nuts, cams, hexes, draws.

The fog now alternated between heavy mist, or what a pessimist might refer to as “light rain,” and a simple grey sky. Without the sun, the air was a bit chill. Lindsay, who had already been on the tower numerous times, suggested we go for coffee instead. Perhaps try the tower another day. We smiled at such a crazy suggestion.

Peter arrived, we stood in our jackets, hands in pockets and looked at the sky some more. Soon, but not what you’d call “early,” we loaded gear and selves into Mark’s rig and headed west.

*Note: The picture is not from this trip; the sun was a bit higher by the time we got there. Photo by Tony Bubb and found at Mountain Project