Friday, September 28, 2007

Pantsplitter on a Hot June Day


Mark's at the summit, but wait, the summit is only the middle of the climb. How fortunate for me, I get to do my first gear lead on toprope. And I only need one piece. There was no hiding from the sun on this climb. And I did want to.

Mark and I hiked in with Lindsay to look for the complement to Even Steven, Uneven Steven, a Conn route she was looking for. These routes are in the neighborhood of Calamity Peak. The easiest access is accross private land, which we had permission to enter. We stopped to talk to a neighbor who was painting a fence. Trim and elderly, grey hair in a bun, she told us the first time she had clambered up Calamity Peak was in her patent leather shoes and Sunday dress when she was about 6. She said she'd spent a lot of time climbing around those rocks. When Lindsey asked if she'd used ropes she said, "Aww no, I'm from around here."

Sharp and Grace Note, Noon on April 25

Mark and Tara pause on the path to the One-Two gully. Yes, that's snow on the ground and Mark in a T-shirt.
Mark is at the crux. It's not tough, but it has that nice committing feel when you leave the security of the chimney and step onto the face.

Tara styles up the lower section.

Pat, our fearless leader of the day, sets his first piece of gear. He looks like he's in the sun, but it's a trick of light. The crack was cold and it was a chilly belay.

We didn't climb Grace Note, but both climbs start the same. You begin in the crack/chimney to the left, step right onto the face and head to the crack on the right; follow the crack up to the notch. For Grace Note, you spiral around the back of the spire to the left. It seems like there's a bush you have to climb through. For Sharp, head up the ridge to the right. It's very fun, but could stand to have some permanent anchors. Mark donated his 30 foot cordalette for us to wrap around the spire to rap off of. There are no pictures of the summit because I ran out of batteries.